Pursuing Skin Health with 'Ultra-Low Molecular Peptides [Translation Version]
Peptides are short chains of proteins composed of 2 to 50 amino acids and play a role in regulating various physiological activities of living things. Recently, peptides have emerged as an important keyword in cosmetics because they are known to regulate the production of collagen and elastin, thereby playing a key role in skin regeneration. Additionally, research continues to show that peptides help regulate the skin barrier and the skin microbiome, and are effective in anti-aging by overcoming skin aging.
The challenge is how to effectively deliver these beneficial peptides deep into the skin. Larger peptides or proteins are known to have higher target specificity, fewer side effects, and greater efficacy compared to small molecules, but they are also less convenient in terms of production, storage, and use. Moreover, they have difficulty penetrating the skin, requiring specialized devices or materials. SupadElixir Co., Ltd. (CEO Jang-Hee Han) addresses these limitations of high-molecular-weight materials by utilizing ultra-low molecular peptides with a molecular weight of 500 Daltons or less.
The Potential of Ultra-Low Molecular Peptides Discovered by Chance
In 2009, before founding SupadElixir Co., Ltd., CEO Jang-Hee Han, who was then a professor at Kangwon National University's College of Medicine, was conducting research on the cell adhesion regulation function of CD99, a type of membrane protein. During his research, he discovered that a 3-mer ultra-low molecular peptide derived from CD99 could bind to a target protein and regulate its function. At this point, he wondered, "Could the principle of ultra-low molecular peptides be applied to other proteins besides CD99?" When this question was confirmed through repeated experiments and validation processes, he gained confidence that ultra-low molecular peptides could be used in the development of Super-Drugs (innovative new drugs). This belief soon led to the founding of SupadElixir with the ambition to develop Super-Drugs.
SupadElixir's ultra-low molecular peptides are composed of small units of 2 to 5 amino acids and it is called Short Linear Motifs (SLiM). SLiMs are regions of 3 to 10 consecutive amino acids within proteins that mediate protein-protein interactions. By binding to target proteins and inducing structural changes, these SLiMs can regulate the function of the target proteins. In other words, ultra-low molecular peptides act as bioactive peptides that regulate the physiological activity of cells. With SLiM development technology, the conventional protein-protein interaction (PPI) can be replaced with peptide-protein interaction (PPI).
Picture 1. Short Linear Motifs (SLiM)
SupadElixir’s development of ultra-low molecular peptides goes through two major stages. The first stage involves discovering new Short Linear Motifs (SLiMs), using bioinformatics data, sequence analysis, SLiM database searches, and peptide library screening methods. SupadElixir's proprietary expertise lies in identifying the specific sites where peptides bind to proteins. In particular, to enhance skin permeability, the company focuses on short motifs composed of three amino acids.
After discovering SLiMs, the next stage involves validating the function and physical properties of the SLiMs, followed by steps to enhance their efficacy and potency. To confirm and verify efficacy, biochemical, cell biology, and bioinformatics studies are conducted, and this is the most time-consuming part of the overall process. Once the SLiM is discovered, it goes through tests to verify the solubility and stability of the peptide. Then, after human trials to ensure efficacy and safety, the peptide is finally selected as a candidate for useful materials.
Clinical Research Proves the Effectiveness of Ultra-Low Molecular Peptides
SupadElixir, which has been continuously developing new peptide ingredients using ultra-low molecular peptide technology, has so far developed more than 50 bioactive peptides.
Of these, 15 peptides have been patented, registered in the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), and commercialized. Furthermore, with its self-developed tri-peptide cosmetic ingredients, the company launched a specialized peptide-based derma cosmetic brand called "Hans Peptide," offering lines for moisture barrier reinforcement, anti-aging, soothing sensitive skin, and premium aesthetic care. Regarding the Ultimate Relief Cream in the sensitive skin-soothing line, significant research results were announced.
SupadElixir conducted joint research with Professor Hye-Sook Han's team from the Hemato-Oncology Department at Chungbuk National University Hospital. The study examined "the effect of tri-peptide cream on Hand-Foot Syndrome (HFS), a common side effect of chemotherapy." HFS is a skin toxicity condition caused by chemotherapy drugs, which manifests in the palms and soles with symptoms such as tingling, tenderness, redness, swelling, pain, erythema, and peeling. The study hypothesized that Hans Peptide's Ultimate Relief Cream could alleviate these symptoms in cancer patients undergoing chemotherapy.
The research was conducted with 60 patients experiencing hand and foot discomfort due to chemotherapy-induced skin toxicity. In the trial group using the tri-peptide cream, symptoms were alleviated earlier compared to the control group using a placebo cream. These clinical research results were presented in an oral presentation at the European Society for Medical Oncology (ESMO Congress 2023) held in Spain and were published this year in the academic journal Cancer Research and Treatment. These findings demonstrate that ultra-low molecular peptides can effectively penetrate human skin tissue and exhibit their benefits.
Picture 2. Bioactive Function of Peptides
The Effectiveness of ‘Bioactive Peptides’ Leads to the Development of Anti-Aging Peptides
Many cosmetics available on the market claim to deliver excellent functionality and effects due to their beneficial ingredients. However, in many cases, these ingredients do not penetrate the surface of the skin and remain in the epidermis. Consumers' desire for cosmetic ingredients that absorb deep into the skin has led to the recent popularity of low-molecular-weight collagen and peptides. This is where SupadElixir’s ultra-low molecular peptides stand out. It is highly effective "bioactive peptides due to identifie the minimal binding sites with target molecules, rather than simply breaking down protein fragments into smaller units.
CEO Jang-Hee Hahn explains, “Proteins regulate physiological activity through binding with various biomolecules, including proteins and nucleic acids.” Ultra-low molecular peptides, composed of five or fewer amino acids, bind to target molecules, induce structural changes, and regulate physiological activity, which is why they are called "bioactive peptides." For example, SupadElixir’s SYNEPIN™ peptide, derived from epidermal growth factor (EGF), is an ultra-low molecular peptide composed of a sequence of three specific amino acids. It binds to its target molecule, EGFR, and induces a structural change in EGFR, stimulating cell proliferation. This differentiates it from typical peptides, which merely act as sources of amino acids for protein synthesis without fundamentally activating cells.
A major advantage of ultra-low molecular peptides, especially those composed of 3 to 5 amino acids, is that they are ultra-low molecular substances with a molecular weight of less than 500 Daltons, allowing for high skin permeability and deeper absorption into the skin. Once absorbed, these peptides are similar to naturally occurring peptides in the body, and since they are broken down or expelled from the body after acting for a short time, they carry almost no side effects.
Picture 3. Skin Penetration and Target Specificity
Picture 4. Efficacy Compared to Other Peptides
Since its founding in 2009, SupadElixir has developed dozens of ultra-low molecular peptides, including the anti-inflammatory peptide BINTERIN™, three collagen-boosting peptides—SYNEPIN™, SYNDERMIN™, and the skin barrier peptide ADIPONIN™—as well as the skin-whitening peptide WINHIBIN™. Last year, the company launched six new products, including SENOLIN™, a peptide that eliminates skin senescent cells, RETINOGIN™, a peptide alternative to retinol, and VAMTOXIN™, a peptide similar to botulinum toxin. SupadElixir continues to steadily develop new ultra-low molecular peptides.
In particular, the global perception of aging has shifted from being seen as a "natural phenomenon" to being viewed as a "disease" that requires prevention and treatment. As a result, the importance of bioactive peptides has increased. In response to this trend, SupadElixir has recently focused on developing "anti-aging and reverse-aging peptides" that utilize the bioactive peptide effects of ultra-low molecular peptides. Additionally, the company plans to enhance the efficacy of its peptides or expand their applications by combining them with other useful materials such as exosomes and stem cells.
Picture 5. Tripeptide cream. combination formula of anti-inflammatroy tripeptide(Binterin™) andmoisturizing tripeptide(Winhibin™)
“Skin is the largest organ of the human body, making it vulnerable to damage due to its exposure to the environment, which accelerates aging. Through our bioactive peptide technology, we are focusing on developing materials that can inhibit skin aging caused by external factors such as UV rays and fine dust, as well as internal factors like natural aging. We also plan to continue developing new drugs and medical device materials that can support the health of various organs in the body."
THE K BEAUTY SCIENCE : https://www.beautynury.com/news/view/104647/cat/10
